Elephant Watching

When is the best time to meet elephants?

Rhythm of the rains

All life in north Kenya relies on the ebb and flow of seasonal rivers that fold around the Monsoon rains. The humid Kusi in April heralds the first elephant season starting in May, while the 'short' Kaskazi rains in November prelude the second.

In the social season, with landscapes bursting with fresh green foliage, elephants gather in their hundreds along the Ewaso Ngiro river (from May to July & Dec to mid Feb). You'll see calves fumble through first steps, gigantic musth bulls fight for the right to mate, and females lace the air with a dance of seductive pheromones.

As the land dries up, hunger sets in and predators rule the day. Elephant herds begin to drift apart, relying on the wisdom of their Matriarchs to get through each drought, longing for storm clouds to build again in the sky.

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How do you ID an elephant?

Tusks, ears and big attitudes

Learning the outline of elephants' ears and the shapes of their tusks is the best way to tell them apart, as the patterns are as different as fingerprints. After a while - as your ID skills click into focus - the unique way an individual elephant holds itself becomes as easy to spot as a friend walking along a crowded street.

Through time, certain elephants have became legends in their own right. Each one shaped our journey or played a role in deepening our understanding of elephant intelligence or 'personhood'. Not just in Samburu, but across Kenya and Tanzania too. We salute their splendour and honour the resilience of their kind.

Meet ...

Inkosikazi

In the mid 1960s, Iain Douglas-Hamilton began his seminal study of elephant society in Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania. He met battalions of formidable females like Inkosikazi that charged on sight, their hatred of mankind tangible, inflamed by decades of trophy hunting.

But Iain broke through their rules, meeting hostility with calm and anger with humility. The elephants soon realised he wasn't a threat, opening their ranks. His observations of the elephants' natural state, and insights on their society and intelligence, transformed our understanding of elephants as emotional, sentient beings, much like us.

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Meet ...

Henrik

After 20 years fighting to shut down ivory trade, Iain moved the STE team to Samburu National Reserve to focus on North Kenya's free-roaming elephants. With 1000+ individuals known by name, a growing team of local and international scientists have studied their relationships, families, DNA, decisions, movements, and life histories in detail since 1997.

Henrik is a bull in his prime. Now in his late 40s, he's one of the oldest surviving males in Samburu. Named after a STE Danish researcher that now builds satellite tracking collars, Henrik appears sporadically, often battle-scarred from fights with other males - a perfect future vessel for a collar.

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Meet ...

Anastasia

In Samburu, the elephants are named after 'genres'. There is a Storms family, some Artists, Spice Girls, Turks and even First Ladies. Anastasia is the matriarch of the Royals. When her matriarch-mother died, atypically, both she and her older sister, Cleopatra, became co-matriarchs.

With decisions wholly in-tune, the Royals are now the most dominant family in the reserves, known for their distinguishing 'royal' mark - spots of pigment loss on legs and trunks - that appear as pink patches after a cleansing wash in the river. Sadly, Cleopatra died of natural causes in 2019, but Anastasia continues with her wise reign.

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Meet ...

Anwar

There's nobody quite like Anwar! Somewhat unaware of his considerable bulk and strength, Anwar loves to say hello to our team. He might rub his face on the car, sit on the hood, or take a good long sniff of the occupants. It's resulted in a few cracked windscreens or holes in the canvas roof, but he means no harm.

These same overtures are not received well in the local town, where he breaks through mud roofs to access stores of seed pods. It keeps our 'human elephant co-existence' team very busy, and he's collared for advance warning of his whereabouts.

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Meet ...

Boadicea

A ferocious Manyara matriarch, Boadicea was famous for her terrifying threat displays, thundering out of the bushes screaming defiantly at her enemy, while savagely thrashing vegetation.

Named after the British Iceni Queen that rebelled against the Romans, Boadicea was one of Iain & Oria's favourite elephants. Despite her fierce posturing, her charges were always bluff. Acts of great courage, in fact, placing herself physically between her family and danger. She was killed by poachers in the late 1970s, as ivory trade spiralled out of control.

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Meet ...

Virgo

A junior cow in Boadicea's family, Virgo was a gentle-hearted, inquisitive teenager that caught Iain's eye from the start. Their mutual curiousity led in time to an extraordinary cross-species friendship that lasted decades.

It was the first contact of its kind, a singular spark that enkindled an entirely new understanding of elephants. Fondly recalling meeting Virgo, in the award-winning film, A Life Among Elephants, the famous primatologist, Jane Goodall, was astonished by the gentle magic of their interactions.

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Meet ...

Sarara

Sarara was brought to Camp by Chuck Yeager, an habituated bull we knew well. He soon claimed it as his own turf, despite his lower ranking, giving bluff but firm warnings if we ever disrespected his boundaries, but happily sleeping among us, dreaming elephant dreams as he snored beneath the stars.

Seedlings that slithered through his gut are now saplings in our forest, and he was greatly loved by bats, who'd skim through his legs like night fighters, feasting on the clouds of insects he'd stir. We're devastated to have lost both bulls within two weeks of each other - killed in mindless acts of violence by angry, armed men, enraged by drought.

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What is elephant watching?

With elephants known individually by name we can trace the bloodline of each calf born today back in time through four generations

The Goddesses, Butterflies, Rivers and Winds - names of the seventy odd families you could meet in Samburu, along with their impressive matriarchs, Athena, Monarch, Euphrates, and Mistral.

Thanks to the long-term research of our conservation partner, Save The Elephants - who continuously trains our guides - you'll get to know Samburu's enigmatic elephants as 'persons', diving into their triumphs and tragedies, and learning how they negotiate the many challenges of life in a mercurial landscape.

The intimacy of our encounters with these special free-roaming elephants - that have come to know and trust us over years of consistent, gentle interactions - is quite remarkable.

Welcoming us into the heart of their herds, we delight in the unadulterated pleasure of watching the secrets of their lives unfold in unhurried elephant-time, in a completely relaxed manner. The more we learn about this fascinating society, the clearer it becomes that 'family' is the single most important unit for their survival.

Did you know that elephants have ...

Marvellous Memories

An expansive memory is both enviable and essential for elephant survival. As the primary repositories of knowledge, Matriarchs glean wisdom as calves or through hard-won experience that helps guide their families through times of hardship or uncertainty. Remembering the location of distant waterholes, good pasture, safe migration routes through dangerous landscapes, or even the audial and olfactory imprint of other elephants, can be matters of life and death.

They're bursting with ...

Charm & Charisma

No two elephants are the same. Each individual has its own unique character and personality. Some are bold and curious, others are cautious and reserved, while a few can even be grudge-holding or taciturn. These traits shape how individuals interact within and between families, build longterm friendships, define leadership roles and even found dynasties.

And most importantly they are ...

Eco - Architects

Elephants are ecosystem engineers. By feeding, digging, felling trees or trampling vegetation, they clear boulevards, open up impenetrable scrubland, disperse seeds, plant forests, and dig down to water giving acces to all other species. The health of landscapes are closely tied to the presence or absence of elephants.

Beyond our preoccupation with pachyderms

What else can you spot in Samburu?

Home to many endangered species as well as Samburu's Special Five, each day in the bush is quite different and spattered with adventure. From stellar moments for photographs or film, to sitting quietly absorbing the exquisite symphonies of the wild, you can lose yourself entirely in the wild ambiance.

Elephants are keystone species at the centre of a complex system adapted to Kenya's arid north, so the way they interact with the broad array of avian, reptilian, mammalian, amphibious, insectoid and fungal life in Samburu, is fascinating.

You May Spot ...

Leopard

Elusive and beautifully camouflaged, leopards are opportunistic hunters that pad silently through the landscape, often appearing just when you least expect them.

You May Spot ...

Reticulated Giraffe

With their striking geometric patterns and impossibly elegant stride, reticulated giraffes are among Samburu’s most iconic residents.

You May Spot ...

Beisa Oryx

Part of the Samburu Special Five, the Beisa oryx is beautifully adapted to the dry northern landscape, surviving with remarkable resilience and grace.

You May Spot ...

Hornbills

The smaller Tockus deckeni (Von der Decken’s), T. flavirostris (E yellow-billed), T. erythrorhynchus (N red-billed), and T. nasutus (African Grey), plus the large Bucorvus leadbeateri (southern ground) hornbills are found in Samburu.

You may also see...

Grevy’s Zebra

The rarest zebra in the world and one of the celebrated 'Special Five', Grevy’s zebra are specially adapted to life in dry landscapes, and are known for their fine stripes and large round ears.

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Cheetah

Sleek and impossibly fast, cheetahs thrive in Samburu’s bush land, hunting in fast bursts of speed having first scanned for prey from a higher vantage point.

You May Spot ...

Somali Ostrich

With their vivid blue legs and striking appearance, Somali ostriches are one of the iconic Samburu Special Five found in northern Kenya.

You My Spot ...

Scops Owl

Immaculate and perfectly camouflaged, these tiny owls call to each other at night every six seconds ... precisely!

You May Spot...

Lion

Often found in pairs, Samburu’s lions have flourished in the last two decades as efforts to mitigate conflict with people has brokered a more peaceful coexistence.

You May Spot ...

Dwarf Mongooses

Energetic and entertaining, these highly social mini-mongooses are full of attitude, darting around to forage with a constant chatter.

You May Spot ...

Dik-Dik

Small enough to disappear into the bushes in seconds, dik-diks are among the most delicate and charming antelope in the north.

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Greater & Lesser Kudu

With spiralled horns and an almost mystical elegance, kudus seem to melt effortlessly into the dry woodland.

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Secretary Birds

Tall, dramatic, unmistakable raptors, these long-legged predators stalk across the plains hunting snakes by stamping on them with astonishing precision.

You May Spot ...

Bee-Eaters

Flashing through the air in brilliant colours, bee-eaters bring movement and vibrancy to Samburu’s riverbanks.

You May Spot ...

Vulturine Guineafowl

Clad in electric blues and striking patterns, these flamboyant birds move across the landscape like tiny warriors in formation.

You May Spot ...

Caracal

Rarely seen and beautifully elusive, the caracal is one of Samburu’s most secretive predators.

You May Spot ...

Golden-Breasted Starling

Almost too colourful to be real, these shimmering birds are little jewels of the Samburu skies.

You May Spot ...

Gerenuk

The gerenuk is one of Samburu’s famous Special Five, often seen standing upright on its hind legs to browse from thorny bushes.

You May Spot ...

Hammerkop

Famous for building enormous nests, hamerkops are curious birds often spotted near water.

You May Spot ...

Vervet Monkey

Mischievous, intelligent, and highly entertaining, vervet monkeys always seem to know exactly what is happening around Camp.

You May Spot ...

Grant's Gazelle

Elegant and alert, Grant’s gazelles move gracefully across Samburu’s open plains, their pale coats glowing beautifully against the red northern earth.

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Instinct and insight

Expert Guides

Tuning in to the distant calls of painted wolves, the singsong of harlequin quails, the alluring stench of a musth bull in thick vegetation, or the scribbled drama of wild spoor, our warrior-guides are direct conduits to Samburu's sensory universe.

Trained by Save The Elephants to engage only with the gentlest etiquette, their astute understanding of wild species draws on chasmic reservoirs of traditional knowledge gleaned from entire lives immersed in nature.

We're deeply proud of our partnership as conservation-led tourism is an important way to protect wild life and landscapes. The experience we offer is uniquely Samburu and leaves an indelible imprint on the heart.

Meet...

Serenoi Letoiye

Able to recognise 500+ of Samburu’s resident elephants on sight, Serenoi brings their world vividly to life. Decades of close observation and exceptional encounters have distilled his knowledge into the finest of 'wines'. He's even run the New York marathon in support of elephant conservation.

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Litus Lekalaile

Litus survived a terrifying elephant attack as a small boy herding goats. We met him as he tumbled into Camp, desperately seeking assistance for an injured companion. The rest is history. Having made the most of an Elephant Scholarship, Litus is now a certified guide with profound knowledge of Samburu's 70 elephant families.

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Meet ...

Lerogei Lekuuk

With an acute ear and eye for the wild, Lekuuk can identify birds invisible but for their calls, or streaking past on the wing. Trained in long-term monitoring by STE, he's highly skilled with elephants, and has also transformed a phobia of snakes into a passion, removing them gently from harm's way while enthusiastically explaining why they're special.

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Meet ...

Kanyamo Lekalaile

Kanyamo's father was a respected Laibon (shaman / seer / healer) of Rendille spiritual lineage, deeply connected to the Anima of the land. Kanyamo - a walking encyclopedia on Samburu's medicinal plant - has inherited much of this wisdom and traditional knowledge. A gifted tracker and expert naturalist, he brings nomadic wisdom to the fore.

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Meet ...

Resti Lengunai

Playful, charming and full of energy, Resti brings a lighthearted joy to Camp that's infectious. Whether guiding, tracking wildlife, entertaining children or working behind the bar, his warmth and humour are catalysts for fun. Renown for leaping the heads of standing adults, his athletic prowess is legendary - no one can spring through the air quite like him.

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Meet ...

Naiborke Lenanyankera Lpanari

Known as 'Kiki' by guests, his nickname among the warriors is Lenanyankera, translating to “the eater of sheep” - a fitting title, perhaps, for someone who never goes anywhere without his knife. Whittling toothbrushes from shrubs or slicing through chunks of roast meat, he's a brilliant naturalist, great company and an expert teacher of Samburu style!

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